01How fleece is made
Sweatshirt fleece starts as a looped knit, the same base as French terry: a smooth face yarn with a softer loop yarn on the back. After dyeing, the back runs through a brushing machine with wire-covered rollers that pull the loops open into a soft nap. That nap is what makes it warm and fuzzy.
Polar fleece is made from polyester yarn, knitted, then napped on one or both sides and sheared to an even pile height. Many mills add an anti-pill finish. Microfleece is the same idea with finer fibers and a shorter pile, so it is thinner and lighter.
02Brushed-back cotton fleece vs polar fleece
People search "fleece" and mean two different fabrics. If you are making hoodies, you want sweatshirt fleece. If you are making a quarter-zip pullover for hiking or a blanket, you probably want polar fleece.
| Sweatshirt (cotton) fleece | Polar fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Fiber | Cotton, or cotton and polyester (e.g. 80/20, 50/50) | 100% polyester, often recycled |
| Brushed | Back only | One or both sides, sheared |
| Face | Smooth, prints well | Fuzzy, hard to screen print |
| Warmth for weight | Good | Higher |
| Moisture | Absorbs, slow to dry | Absorbs little, dries fast |
| Typical products | Hoodies, crews, sweatpants | Jackets, vests, blankets, liners |
Blend ratio matters in sweatshirt fleece. More cotton feels better and breathes; more polyester keeps shape, shrinks less, costs less and pills more. 80% cotton, 20% polyester is a common middle ground.
03Fleece weights
- Lightweight sweatshirt fleece, about 250 to 300 GSM: kids wear, layering crews.
- Mid weight, about 300 to 380 GSM: most retail and promo hoodies.
- Heavyweight, about 380 to 500 GSM: premium and streetwear hoodies with a structured, boxy drape.
- Microfleece, about 100 to 200 GSM: liners and light pullovers.
- Polar fleece, about 200 to 350 GSM: jackets, vests and blankets.
04Pros and cons
- Warm for its weight, because the brushed nap traps air
- Soft, comfortable inside, which is what people expect from a hoodie
- Cotton fleece has a smooth face that takes prints and embroidery
- Polar fleece dries fast and stays warm when damp
- Widely available from stock in many weights and colors
- Pilling is common, especially with high polyester content
- Brushed nap can shed lint in the first washes
- Cotton fleece shrinks if not pre-shrunk and is slow to dry
- Polar fleece sheds microfibers in the wash and blocks little wind
- Less breathable than French terry, so it can feel hot indoors
05Typical uses and price
- Hoodies and zip hoodies
- Crewneck sweatshirts and sweatpants
- Fleece jackets, vests and quarter-zips (polar)
- Blankets and throws (polar)
- Jacket and hat liners (microfleece)
- Kids and baby outerwear
Price tier: Budget to mid. Polyester-heavy fleece and basic polar fleece are among the cheaper knit fabrics. Heavyweight high-cotton fleece with combed yarn, anti-pill polar fleece and branded performance fleece cost more.
06How to spec it with a factory
Say which fleece you mean, then lock down blend, weight and brushing in the tech pack. "Fleece" on its own will get you whatever the factory has in stock.
| No. | Field | What to write |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fabric type | Sweatshirt fleece (brushed back) or polar fleece (single or double sided, sheared) |
| 02 | Fabric composition | Exact percentages, e.g. 80% cotton 20% polyester, or 100% recycled polyester |
| 03 | Weight | GSM after finishing, with a tolerance (for example plus or minus 5%) |
| 04 | Yarn | Face yarn spinning and count (combed ring spun reads softer than open-end) |
| 05 | Pilling | Minimum pilling grade with a named test method (e.g. Martindale or random tumble), and anti-pill finish if polar |
| 06 | Shrinkage | Maximum after wash, length and width, with the test method |
| 07 | Rib trim | Matching rib for cuffs and hem, with spandex percentage |
| 08 | Color | Pantone or lab dip reference on the actual fleece |
Certifications and marks
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances. Standard to ask for.
- GRS or RCS
- For recycled polyester or recycled cotton content you want to claim on the label.
- GOTS
- Only for organic cotton fleece, with the whole chain certified.
From the factory floor
- Ask for a pilling test result on the actual fabric, not a generic mill sheet. Fleece pilling is the most common return reason.
- Weigh the sample. Heavyweight claims are easy to fudge, and a 400 GSM quote can arrive at 340.
- Watch for blend creep: a factory may swap 80/20 for 60/40 to save money. Ask for a fiber content test on bulk.
- Brushing level changes the feel; approve a swatch for handfeel and keep it as the bulk standard.
07Fleece vs French terry
Same knit, different finish. French terry keeps its loops, so it is cooler and wears cleaner. Fleece brushes the loops into a nap, so it is warmer and softer but pills and sheds more. Make hoodies for winter in fleece and year-round pieces in terry.
08Polar fleece vs sherpa
Sherpa fleece is usually polyester too, but it is finished to look like a curly sheep’s wool pile. It is bulkier and warmer looking and is mostly used for linings, collars and novelty jackets. Polar fleece is flatter, lighter and easier to sew.
09FAQ
Q01Is fleece cotton or polyester?
Both exist. Sweatshirt fleece used for hoodies is usually cotton or a cotton and polyester blend. Polar fleece used for jackets and blankets is polyester.
Q02What GSM is a good fleece hoodie?
Most retail hoodies are about 300 to 380 GSM. Premium heavyweight hoodies typically sit around 400 to 500 GSM.
Q03Why does fleece pill?
The brushed fibers rub together and tangle into balls, and polyester fibers are strong enough that the balls stay attached. Higher cotton content, better yarn and an anti-pill finish all reduce it.
Q04Does fleece shrink?
Cotton-rich fleece can shrink if it was not pre-shrunk. Polyester polar fleece barely shrinks but can be damaged by high dryer heat.
Q05Is fleece warmer than French terry?
Yes, at the same weight. The brushed nap traps more air than intact loops.