01How modal is made
Modal starts as wood, usually beech. The wood is chipped and pulped into cellulose, then treated with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide to make a viscous solution. That solution is pushed through spinnerets into an acid bath, where it hardens back into cellulose filaments.
That is the same basic route as viscose. The difference is in the process conditions: modal is stretched more during spinning and uses a modified bath, which gives the fiber a tighter structure. The result is a fiber that keeps more of its strength when wet, shrinks less and survives more washes.
The fibers are cut to staple length, spun into yarn (alone or with cotton, spandex or polyester) and knitted or woven. Most modal you will touch is a knit.
02Branded versus generic modal
Lenzing sells modal under the TENCEL Modal name and can trace its fiber through the supply chain. Generic modal from other fiber producers is widely available too, often at a lower price. If a brand wants to put TENCEL on a hangtag, it has to use certified fiber and go through Lenzing’s licensing; a factory saying "it is TENCEL" is not enough.
03Pros and cons
- Noticeably softer and smoother than most cotton jersey
- Drapes well, so tees and lounge pieces hang instead of boxing out
- Takes dye well and keeps color through washing
- Absorbs moisture and feels cool against skin
- More wash-stable and less shrink-prone than standard viscose
- Costs more than cotton or viscose at the same weight
- Little structure on its own; heavy prints and boxy fits are harder
- Can pill on loose knits and in high-friction areas
- The chemical pulping process matters for sustainability claims; ask where the fiber comes from
- Thin jerseys can look clingy or show seams and underwear lines
04Typical uses and price
- Underwear and bras (usually modal with spandex)
- Loungewear and sleepwear
- Premium t-shirts and long sleeves, often a cotton and modal blend
- Activewear base layers, blended with polyester or spandex
- Bed sheets and pillowcases in some home lines
Price tier: Mid to premium. Modal yarn generally costs more than cotton and standard viscose, and branded TENCEL Modal costs more than generic modal. Blends with cotton are a common way to get the feel at a lower cost.
05How to spec it with a factory
Factories quote modal very differently depending on blend, weight and whether the fiber is branded. Put the details in the tech pack so every quote is for the same fabric.
| No. | Field | What to write |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fabric composition | Exact percentages, e.g. 92% modal, 8% spandex, or 50% modal, 50% cotton |
| 02 | Fiber brand | Generic modal or TENCEL Modal; if branded, ask for the fiber certificate |
| 03 | Construction | Single jersey, rib (1x1, 2x2), interlock or French terry |
| 04 | Weight | GSM after finishing, with a tolerance (for example plus or minus 5%) |
| 05 | Yarn | Yarn count (e.g. 40s or 50s for fine jersey) and whether it is compact or ring spun |
| 06 | Shrinkage | Maximum allowed after wash, length and width, with the test method |
| 07 | Color | Pantone or lab dip reference; approve lab dips on the actual fabric |
| 08 | Finishing | Enzyme or silicone softener, anti-pill finish if needed |
Certifications and marks
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances. Common and easy to request for modal.
- FSC or PEFC
- Covers responsible wood sourcing for the pulp. Ask the fiber or fabric supplier for chain-of-custody paperwork.
- Lenzing licensing
- Needed before you use TENCEL branding on labels or marketing.
From the factory floor
- Order a fabric swatch and wash test it yourself before sampling garments; modal blends vary a lot between mills.
- Ask the factory to pre-shrink the fabric and confirm shrinkage in writing.
- For underwear and fitted pieces, specify spandex percentage and recovery, not just "stretch".
- Expect fabric MOQs per color; a fabric that needs to be knitted and dyed for you has higher minimums than stock fabric.
06Modal vs cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber grown in a field; modal is made from wood in a factory. Modal is softer, smoother and drapier, and it holds dye more brightly. Cotton is cheaper, has more body, wears in rather than pilling, and is easier to print and garment dye. A lot of premium tees split the difference with a cotton and modal blend.
07Modal vs viscose (rayon)
Both are regenerated cellulose and both are rayon. Modal is the higher grade: it is stronger when wet, shrinks less and lasts longer in the wash. Viscose is cheaper and drapes beautifully in woven dresses and shirts, but it can shrink and lose shape if washed hot.
08Modal vs lyocell (TENCEL Lyocell)
Lyocell is made with a closed-loop solvent process instead of the viscose chemistry, and it is generally the stronger of the two. Modal tends to feel softer and silkier in knits; lyocell is more common in wovens, denim blends and bedding.
09FAQ
Q01Is modal a natural or synthetic fabric?
Neither, exactly. Modal is semi-synthetic: the raw material is natural cellulose from wood, but it is chemically processed and spun into fiber in a factory. It is grouped with rayon and lyocell as a regenerated cellulose fiber.
Q02Does modal shrink?
Less than viscose and usually less than untreated cotton, but it can still shrink, especially in a hot dryer. Specify a maximum shrinkage in your tech pack and ask for pre-shrunk fabric.
Q03Is modal good for hot weather?
Yes. It absorbs moisture readily and feels cool, which is why it is popular for sleepwear and underwear. For hard training, polyester blends wick and dry faster.
Q04Does modal pill?
It can, especially in loose knits and where fabric rubs. Tighter constructions, finer compact yarns and an anti-pill finish help. Wash test samples before you approve bulk.
Q05What is a good modal blend for t-shirts?
Cotton and modal blends (often around half and half) are common for premium tees: softer and drapier than all cotton, with more body and a lower cost than all modal. Add a few percent spandex for fitted styles.