01How viscose is made
Viscose starts as dissolving pulp, a very pure cellulose made from wood or bamboo. The pulp is steeped in sodium hydroxide, then reacted with carbon disulfide, which turns it into a honey-like orange liquid. That liquid is the "viscose" the fiber is named after.
The solution is pushed through spinnerets into a sulfuric acid bath, where it turns back into solid cellulose filaments. Those filaments are washed, cut into staple fiber (for spun yarn) or kept long as filament yarn (for shiny linings and satins), then spun, woven or knitted like any other fiber.
The chemistry is the reason viscose gets scrutiny. Carbon disulfide is toxic, and older or poorly run plants have polluted air and water around them. Modern producers recover much of the chemistry, which is what branded lower-impact viscose sells on. Process tweaks to the same basic route give you modal; a different solvent entirely gives you lyocell.
02Viscose vs rayon: is there a difference?
Mostly no. Rayon is the umbrella name for regenerated cellulose fibers, and viscose is the original, most common way of making it. In the US the generic name in the FTC’s Textile Act rules is rayon. The rule names lyocell as an allowed alternative, and because it also adopts the ISO 2076 generic names, viscose and modal are accepted on labels too (16 CFR 303.7). In the UK and EU the label usually says viscose. Same fabric, different label conventions.
Watch the word "bamboo". Almost all soft bamboo apparel is viscose (or lyocell) made from bamboo pulp, and after the pulping it is chemically the same as viscose from any other plant. In the US it has to be labeled as rayon or viscose made from bamboo, not just "bamboo". The FTC has been enforcing this since 2009: in 2022 Kohl’s and Walmart agreed to pay $2.5 million and $3 million in civil penalties for selling rayon as bamboo, after earlier penalties against other retailers in 2013 and 2015.
03LENZING ECOVERO and branded viscose
LENZING ECOVERO is a branded viscose from Lenzing, the same company behind TENCEL. It is still viscose, but the wood comes from certified or controlled sources and the production is run to lower emissions and water impact than generic viscose. The fiber can be identified in finished fabric, which is what lets brands put the name on a hangtag.
Like TENCEL, you cannot just print ECOVERO on your label because the mill said so. The fabric has to use certified fiber and go through Lenzing’s licensing. Expect to pay more than generic viscose, and expect the fabric supplier to need lead time if the mill does not already stock it.
04Pros and cons
- Silky drape and softness at a much lower cost than silk
- Takes dye very well; prints come out bright and saturated
- Breathable and cool, good for hot-weather dresses and shirts
- Widely available in stock prints and solids, so small runs are easier
- Blends well with cotton, polyester and spandex
- Weak when wet: seams can slip or tear if garments are washed rough
- Shrinks and distorts if washed hot or tumble dried; needs pre-shrinking
- Wrinkles easily, especially lightweight challis
- Generic viscose carries real environmental baggage unless you source branded or certified fiber
- Can pill and go fuzzy in high-friction areas
05Typical uses and price
- Summer dresses, skirts and blouses (viscose challis and crepe)
- Linings for jackets and bags (filament viscose)
- Drapey tees and tanks, often blended with spandex
- Scarves and printed resort wear
- Blends with polyester for suiting and with cotton for softer jersey
Price tier: Budget to mid. Generic viscose is one of the cheaper soft fibers and is easy to find in stock prints. Branded options like LENZING ECOVERO cost more, and modal and lyocell sit above viscose in most quotes.
06How to spec it with a factory
Viscose behaves very differently depending on construction and finishing, and cheap viscose is where shrinkage problems hide. Put the details in the tech pack so every quote is for the same fabric.
| No. | Field | What to write |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fabric composition | Exact percentages, e.g. 100% viscose, or 95% viscose, 5% spandex |
| 02 | Fiber brand | Generic viscose or LENZING ECOVERO; if branded, ask for the fiber certificate and license |
| 03 | Construction | Challis, crepe, twill, satin or single jersey, with yarn count |
| 04 | Weight | GSM after finishing, with a tolerance (for example plus or minus 5%) |
| 05 | Shrinkage | Maximum after wash in length and width (often 3% or less), with the test method |
| 06 | Seam slippage | Minimum seam strength or slippage requirement for wovens, especially in fitted areas |
| 07 | Color and print | Pantone or lab dip reference; strike-off approval for prints |
| 08 | Finishing | Pre-shrunk (sanforized or compacted), softener, anti-wrinkle if needed |
| 09 | Care label | Agreed care instructions tested on the actual fabric |
Certifications and marks
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances. Easy to request for viscose.
- FSC or PEFC
- Covers responsible wood sourcing for the pulp. Ask for chain-of-custody paperwork from the fiber or fabric supplier.
- Lenzing licensing
- Needed before you use LENZING ECOVERO branding on labels or marketing.
From the factory floor
- Wash test fabric swatches yourself before sampling. Viscose that shrinks 6% or more will wreck your size chart.
- Ask whether the fabric is pre-shrunk and get the shrinkage number in writing.
- For fitted or stressed areas, ask for a seam slippage test; weak viscose wovens can pull apart at the seams.
- Stock printed viscose has low MOQs; custom prints and branded fiber push minimums and lead times up.
- Factories sometimes swap in polyester or a poly blend that looks similar. Ask for a fiber content test on the bulk fabric.
07Viscose vs modal
Both are rayon made by the viscose route. Modal is spun under different conditions, which makes it stronger when wet, less prone to shrinking and better through repeated washing. Viscose is cheaper and drapes beautifully in wovens; modal is the better choice for knits that get washed constantly, like underwear and tees.
| Viscose | Modal | |
|---|---|---|
| Wet strength | Low | Higher |
| Shrinkage risk | Higher | Lower |
| Typical use | Woven dresses, blouses, linings | Underwear, loungewear, premium tees |
| Relative cost | Lower | Higher |
08Viscose vs polyester
Viscose is made from plant cellulose; polyester is made from petroleum. Viscose breathes and absorbs moisture, so it feels cooler and less clammy. Polyester is far stronger, does not shrink, resists wrinkles and dries fast, but it can feel plasticky and trap heat. Many fabrics blend the two to get viscose softness with polyester durability.
09Viscose vs lyocell
Lyocell uses a non-toxic solvent that is recovered and reused, instead of the carbon disulfide chemistry. It is stronger, especially wet, and holds up better in the wash. Viscose is cheaper and has a softer, fluid drape in light wovens.
10FAQ
Q01Is viscose a natural fabric?
No. Viscose is semi-synthetic: it starts as natural cellulose from wood or bamboo but is chemically dissolved and re-spun into fiber in a factory.
Q02Is viscose the same as rayon?
Yes, in practice. Rayon is the umbrella name and viscose is the most common type of rayon. US labels often say rayon, while UK and EU labels say viscose.
Q03Does viscose shrink?
It can, sometimes a lot, especially in hot water or a dryer. Buy pre-shrunk fabric, specify a maximum shrinkage in the tech pack and put cold wash, line dry on the care label.
Q04Is viscose better than polyester?
For breathability and a soft, cool feel, yes. For durability, wrinkle resistance and easy care, polyester wins. Blends are common for that reason.
Q05Is viscose sustainable?
It depends on the source. Generic viscose can involve poor forestry and toxic chemistry; branded or certified options like LENZING ECOVERO, with FSC or PEFC wood, are the lower-impact choices.