What is lyocell?

01How lyocell is made

Lyocell starts with dissolving pulp from wood. Instead of the multi-step viscose chemistry, the pulp is dissolved directly in N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO), an organic solvent, with heat and water to form a clear, thick solution.

That solution is filtered and pushed through spinnerets into a dilute bath of the same solvent, where the cellulose sets into fibers. The fibers are washed, dried and cut to staple. The used solvent is cleaned and recycled back into the process; almost all of it is recovered, and none of the carbon disulfide used for viscose is involved.

Because the cellulose is not chemically changed on the way, the fiber keeps a long, strong structure. That strength is also why lyocell can fibrillate: tiny fibrils split off the surface when the fabric is rubbed wet. Mills control this with enzyme or resin finishes, or use it on purpose to create the soft, peach-skin feel some lyocell fabrics are known for.

02TENCEL Lyocell vs generic lyocell

Lyocell is the generic fiber name. TENCEL is Lenzing’s brand, used for its lyocell and its modal. TENCEL fiber comes with wood sourcing documentation and can be traced in the fabric, and using the TENCEL name on a hangtag requires certified fiber and Lenzing’s licensing.

Generic lyocell from other producers is common and usually cheaper. It can be perfectly good fabric, but you cannot market it as TENCEL, and the sustainability story depends on that producer’s own sourcing and solvent recovery. Ask for documentation rather than taking the mill’s word for it.

03Pros and cons

04Typical uses and price

• Button-up shirts, blouses and workwear-style overshirts
• Bed sheets and pillowcases, often in sateen or twill
• Denim and chino blends with cotton for a softer drape
• Dresses, wide-leg trousers and drapey bottoms
• Tees and loungewear in jersey, often blended with cotton
• Towels and robes in blends

Price tier: Mid to premium. Lyocell generally costs more than viscose and regular cotton, and branded TENCEL Lyocell costs more than generic lyocell. Cotton and lyocell blends are a common way to get some of the hand at a lower cost.

05How to spec it with a factory

Lyocell quotes swing with blend, weave, finish and branding. Put every detail in the tech pack so you are comparing the same fabric across mills.

Certifications and marks

OEKO-TEX Standard 100

Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances.

FSC or PEFC

Covers responsible wood sourcing for the pulp; ask for chain-of-custody documents.

Lenzing licensing

Needed before you use TENCEL branding on labels or marketing.

From the factory floor

• Wash a swatch five or more times before you approve. Fibrillation and shade change show up after a few washes, not on the first sample.
• Specify the finish in writing. A peached lyocell and a clean-finish lyocell can be the same base fabric and look completely different.
• Mills sometimes swap in viscose or modal, which look similar on a hanger. Ask for a fiber content test on bulk.
• Stock lyocell fabrics exist with low minimums; custom colors or branded fiber raise MOQs and lead time.

06Lyocell vs modal

Both are made from wood, and both can carry the TENCEL brand. Modal is made with viscose-style chemistry and tends to feel softer and silkier in knits like underwear and tees. Lyocell uses the closed-loop NMMO solvent, is stronger, and shows up more in wovens, bedding and denim blends.

07Lyocell vs cotton

Cotton is grown; lyocell is made from wood in a factory. Lyocell is smoother, cooler and drapier, and absorbs moisture well. Cotton is cheaper, wears in rather than fibrillating, and is easier to print and garment dye. For sheets, a lyocell sateen feels cooler and slicker than a cotton percale or sateen.

08Lyocell vs viscose

Same raw material, different chemistry. Viscose uses carbon disulfide and loses much of its strength when wet. Lyocell uses a recycled, non-toxic solvent and holds up far better in the wash. Viscose is cheaper and lighter in drape.

09FAQ