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Materials · Fabrics and fibers

What is Pima cotton?

Pima cotton is an extra-long staple cotton (Gossypium barbadense) with fibers about 1.375 inches (35 mm) and longer, grown mainly in the US Southwest and Peru. The long fibers spin into finer, stronger, smoother yarn than regular cotton, so Pima fabric feels softer, pills less and lasts longer. US-grown Pima can be sold as Supima under license.

Also called: Peruvian Pima · American Pima · Extra-long staple (ELS) cotton · Supima (US-grown, licensed)

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Spec sheet
Pima cotton properties
Fiber typeNatural cellulose, extra-long staple cotton (Gossypium barbadense)
SourceUS Southwest and West (Arizona, California, New Mexico, Texas), Peru, plus smaller crops elsewhere
Staple lengthAbout 1.375 in (35 mm) and longer
Common constructionsJersey, pique, interlock, rib, poplin, percale and sateen
Typical weightAbout 130 to 200 GSM for tees and polos; heavier for sweatshirts and lounge
StretchLittle on its own; 3 to 8% spandex for fitted styles
BreathabilityHigh
Hand feelSmooth, soft, light sheen, softens further with washing
PillingLow compared with regular cotton
CareMachine wash, tumble low; shrinks like cotton unless pre-shrunk
Price tierPremium, above regular combed cotton
Pima cotton

01How Pima cotton is made

Pima is a variety of cotton, not a process. It was developed in the early 1900s in Arizona by US agricultural researchers working with growers, and named for the Pima (Akimel O’odham) people whose land the research fields were on. It needs a long, hot, dry growing season and irrigation, which is why it does well in the American Southwest and on the coast of Peru.

After harvest the cotton is ginned (in many regions roller ginned, which is gentler on long fibers), baled and sent to spinners. The fibers are combed to take out short ones, then ring spun or compact spun into fine yarn. That yarn is knitted into jersey and pique or woven into shirting and sheeting.

Peru has its own Pima tradition, mostly in the northern coastal valleys, and a lot of premium knitwear and tees use Peruvian Pima yarn spun and knitted in Peru. It is the same species and similar staple length; it just cannot be called Supima.

02Pima vs Supima vs Egyptian cotton

These three get mixed up constantly. Pima is the variety. Supima is a trademark for 100% American-grown Pima, licensed by the Supima association. Egyptian cotton is cotton grown in Egypt, mostly the same species, sold in named Giza varieties.

PimaSupimaEgyptian
What the name meansA variety of ELS cottonUS-grown Pima, trademarkedCotton grown in Egypt
Where grownUS, Peru, othersUS onlyEgypt only
StapleExtra longExtra longLong or extra long, depends on Giza variety
ProofSupplier documentsSupima licenseCotton Egypt Association Gold Seal
Best known forTees, polos, knitwearTees, polos, sheetsSheets and towels

03Pros and cons

Pros
  • Softer and smoother than regular cotton, with a subtle sheen
  • Stronger fibers mean better durability and less pilling
  • Takes dye with rich, even color
  • Usually cheaper than Supima for a similar feel when sourced from Peru
  • Good choice for golf polos and fitted tees that need to look sharp after many washes
Cons
  • Costs more than regular combed cotton
  • No single license or seal outside Supima, so verification relies on supplier documents
  • "Pima" on a sales sheet can mean a blend with regular cotton; ask for percentages
  • Shrinks like any cotton unless pre-shrunk
  • Fewer stock colors and weights than standard cotton jersey

04Typical uses and price

  • Premium t-shirts and henleys
  • Golf and resort polos in pique or jersey
  • Baby clothes and sleepwear
  • Fine-gauge sweaters and knitwear
  • Shirting and bed sheets

Price tier: Premium. Pima yarn costs more than regular combed cotton. Peruvian Pima and Supima often land in a similar range, with Supima carrying licensing on top. Pima blends with modal or regular cotton bring the cost down.

05How to spec it with a factory

Write the origin, yarn and construction into the tech pack. "Pima" alone leaves room for a factory to quote anything from a blend to a lower grade.

Tech pack and BOM lines
No.FieldWhat to write
01Fabric composition100% Pima cotton, or exact blend (e.g. 95% Pima cotton, 5% spandex)
02OriginPeruvian Pima, US Pima or Supima; ask for yarn documentation
03YarnCount (e.g. 40s to 60s for fine jersey), combed, ring spun or compact spun
04ConstructionSingle jersey, pique, interlock, rib or woven
05WeightGSM after finishing, with a tolerance (for example plus or minus 5%)
06ShrinkageMaximum after wash in length and width, with the test method
07SpiralityMaximum torque or twist for jersey after washing
08ColorPantone or lab dip reference, approved on the actual fabric

Certifications and marks

OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances.
Supima licensing
Only for US-grown Pima, and only if you want the Supima name on the product.
GOTS
Only if you source certified organic Pima, which exists but is a smaller supply.

From the factory floor

  • Ask for the composition in writing. A "Pima blend" that is mostly regular cotton is a common quote trick.
  • Compare two or three mills on the same yarn count and GSM; Pima quality varies a lot with spinning.
  • Wash test for shrinkage and torque before approving the sample.
  • Peruvian factories often knit and sew in one place, which can simplify sourcing for knit basics.

06Pima vs regular cotton

Regular (upland) cotton has shorter fibers, about 1 to 1.125 inches. It makes perfectly good tees and is cheaper, but the yarn is fuzzier, pills more and feels rougher at the same weight. Pima costs more and earns it in softness and wash life.

07Pima vs modal

Modal is a wood-based fiber that drapes and clings more and feels silkier. Pima has more body and structure, which suits polos and tees that should keep their shape. Blends of the two are common.

08FAQ

Q01Is Pima cotton better than regular cotton?

For softness, strength and pilling, yes. Its longer fibers spin into finer, smoother yarn. It costs more, so it makes most sense for premium basics.

Q02What is the difference between Pima and Supima?

Supima is a trademark for 100% American-grown Pima cotton, licensed by the Supima association. Pima grown in Peru or elsewhere is still Pima but cannot be called Supima.

Q03Is Peruvian Pima cotton good?

Yes. Peruvian Pima is the same extra-long staple species and is widely used for premium tees and knitwear. Quality still depends on the spinning and knitting.

Q04Does Pima cotton shrink?

It can, like any cotton. Buy pre-shrunk or compacted fabric and set a shrinkage limit in your tech pack.

Q05Is Pima cotton the same as Egyptian cotton?

They are mostly the same species but grown in different places. Egyptian cotton is grown in Egypt; Pima comes mainly from the US and Peru.