01How pique is made
Pique is knitted on circular machines, like jersey, but some needles tuck instead of knitting a full stitch. A tuck holds the yarn without pulling it through, which raises small cells on the surface. Repeating that pattern across rows makes the honeycomb texture.
Mills then dye and finish the fabric. Cotton pique is usually compacted or sanforized to control shrinkage; performance polyester pique gets wicking and sometimes anti-odor or UV finishes. The texture gives pique more body than jersey, which is why a polo collar and placket sit better on it.
The knit-collar polo in pique was popularized by tennis player René Lacoste, which is why people still call it the Lacoste knit. Today it is the default for golf, tennis and corporate polos.
02Single pique vs double pique
Mills use these names a bit differently, so always approve a swatch. Generally, single pique has a finer, flatter texture and is lighter. Double pique uses a longer tuck repeat, so the cells are deeper and the fabric is thicker and more structured.
| Single pique | Double pique | |
|---|---|---|
| Texture | Fine, subtle | Deeper, more visible |
| Weight | Lighter | Heavier |
| Structure | Softer drape | Holds shape more |
| Typical use | Summer and fashion polos | Classic and premium polos |
03Cotton pique vs performance polyester pique
Cotton pique is the classic: breathable, matte, comfortable and easy to embroider. It absorbs sweat and holds it, so it gets heavy on a hot round of golf, and it shrinks and fades more.
Performance pique is polyester, often with 4 to 10% spandex. It wicks and dries fast, holds color, resists wrinkles and stretches with a swing. It can look shiny if the yarn is wrong, hold odor, and snag more. Most modern golf polos are performance pique or a smooth performance jersey.
04Pros and cons
- Holds structure, so collars and plackets look sharp
- Breathes well thanks to the open texture
- Texture hides wrinkles and minor stains better than flat jersey
- Takes embroidery well, which matters for logo polos
- Available in cotton for classic polos or polyester for performance
- Textured surface is harder to screen print than jersey
- Cotton pique shrinks and fades if not finished well
- Polyester pique can look shiny or cheap with the wrong yarn
- Performance pique snags on velcro and holds odor without treatment
- Less stretch than jersey unless spandex is added
05Typical uses and price
- Golf polos
- Tennis and classic polo shirts
- Corporate and uniform polos
- School uniforms
- Polo dresses and lightweight knit tops
Price tier: Budget to premium. Basic polyester or cotton and polyester pique from stock is cheap. Long staple cotton pique, mercerized cotton and branded performance blends with spandex sit at the top.
06How to spec it with a factory
A polo has more parts than a tee: body fabric, flat knit collar, placket, buttons. Put all of them in the tech pack so the factory cannot swap in whatever pique they have on the shelf.
| No. | Field | What to write |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fabric composition | Exact percentages, e.g. 100% cotton, or 90% polyester 10% spandex |
| 02 | Construction | Single pique, double pique, or mesh pique; approve a swatch |
| 03 | Weight | GSM after finishing, with a tolerance (for example plus or minus 5%) |
| 04 | Yarn | Count and spinning for cotton (e.g. combed ring spun 30s or 40s); denier and filament count for polyester |
| 05 | Collar and cuffs | Flat knit collar and cuff, matched fiber and color, or self-fabric collar; note tipping stripes |
| 06 | Finishes | Wicking, anti-odor, UV, mercerizing or silicone softener as needed |
| 07 | Shrinkage | Maximum after wash, length and width, with the test method |
| 08 | Trims | Button material, size and count; placket length; side vents |
| 09 | Color | Pantone or lab dip; approve on the body fabric and the knit collar, since they dye differently |
Certifications and marks
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- Tests the finished fabric for harmful substances. Standard to request for polo fabric.
- GRS
- If the polyester is recycled and you want to claim it.
- bluesign
- Sometimes available for performance polyester fabrics from bluesign partner mills; covers chemicals and process.
From the factory floor
- Color match the knit collar to the body. They are knitted and dyed separately and are the most common mismatch on polos.
- For performance golf polos, test the fabric for snagging and sheen under daylight before approving.
- Specify stretch and recovery for golf polos, not just "has stretch".
- Embroidery puckers on light pique. Ask for a backing and test your logo on the actual fabric.
07Pique vs jersey
Jersey is flat, soft and stretchy and is the tee fabric. Pique is textured and structured and is the polo fabric. Some golf brands now make polos in smooth performance jersey for a sleeker look, but pique still breathes and hides wrinkles better.
08Pique vs interlock
Interlock is a smooth double knit with no visible texture. It is used for dressier polos and premium tees. It drapes more and feels softer, but it is warmer and shows wrinkles more than pique.
09FAQ
Q01Why are polo shirts made of pique?
The textured knit holds structure for the collar and placket and lets air through. It also hides wrinkles and sweat better than flat jersey.
Q02Is pique fabric cotton?
Pique is a knit construction, not a fiber. Classic polos use cotton pique; most performance golf polos use polyester pique, often with spandex.
Q03What is the difference between single and double pique?
Single pique has a finer, flatter texture and is lighter. Double pique has deeper cells, more weight and more structure.
Q04Does pique shrink?
Cotton pique can shrink if it was not pre-shrunk. Polyester pique barely shrinks but can be damaged by high dryer heat.
Q05Is pique good for hot weather?
Yes. The open texture breathes well. For sweaty outdoor wear like golf, performance polyester pique dries faster than cotton.